Stuck

Clark May 3rd, 2007

The above photo is from the steaming hot night spot Puerto Eden.

I may be here in Valdivia longer than I thought.

The welder will speaketh his verdict in a few hours. It’s a bit difficult to explain, but it would be the equivalent of trying to be a good citizen when you go to the service station and checking your tire pressure. When you check the pressure you break off the valve. To replace the valve they have to take the wheel off the car and the tire off the rim. Doing this the rim breaks, and that size rim hasn’t been manufactured in twenty-seven years and is completely unavailable, and if it were it would take four weeks to deliver and be subject to countless insane import taxes.

In my case it’s not a rim, but a broken engine casting (idiot!) that allows a jaunty cascade of hot engine oil to spraypaint the inside of the engine compartment the second I start the engine.

Since it is a cast part, it is difficult to weld, so it’s being repaired on a slim chance/do what we can/no guarantee/reasonable chance we’ll completely destroy the part and then you’ll really be screwed basis. My future is in the hands of a man with eight and a half fingers and seven teeth.

Ships and sailors rot in port

Clark May 2nd, 2007

Pertaining to photo above, see April 17th update (Puerto Island) for definitions of ‘brash ice’ and ‘growler.’

I’m noticing contrast between this photo and the one at the top of this web page. What am I, crazy? Get the hell out of here, man, and to someplace warm and tropical. Enough is enough.

Yesterday was a public holiday in Chile, so everything, including the Internet cafe, was closed.

The weather isn’t looking too hot for going north, so I’m still sticking around. It’s only been five days in port and I’m already slipping into the homely routine of yacht club life: Dinners, movie nights, book swaps, and hot showers. The empty bottles are piling up in the cockpit and I’m sleeping till ten. It’s only ten bucks per day.

Very sad to hear that Kurt Vonnegut died. I’ve just read his last book, Timequake, and enjoyed it.

So it goes.

Still in port in Valdivia

Clark April 30th, 2007

Life is cruel.

On Saturday night I went to a dinner party on some Quebequois friends’ boat, celebrating Andres’s sixty-ninth birthday. Andres is a Swiss friend from yet another boat. Andres spent his career as one of the top professional wine tasters in Europe, until he had a head injury that completely destroyed his sense of smell. Now he says the cheapest Chilean boxed wine tastes the same as the best French vintage. He can only catorize liquids into three major flavors: sweet, tart, and salty.

As the night wore on and Andres got more maudlin, he started telling us about all the things that have lost their flavor. Many things, he says, really have no flavor to the tongue at all. It is the smell that creates the illusion of flavor. He said with fresh basil he might as well be eating grass.

This is a photo of the Fuegian sky in the Beagle Channel. 

Patagonian Channel: Photo of the Day

Clark April 28th, 2007

In Port and Online

Clark April 28th, 2007

I am devoting this day to actually understanding this website. I hope everyone understands that this has been one-way communication up to this point: I have been sending the updates via Sailmail (very slow radio link) and Matt has been posting them to the website.

Now I have made my first post and I will start responding to comments…people have actually been reading this thing! Matt told me that I have full admin, meaning I can accidentally erase the whole website, so I will tread softly as I learn.

I finally saw something on TV about the tsunami. It’s pretty grim, pulling bodies out of the rubble. At least it’s nice and cold so the bodies are staying fresh. In Thailand they were all rotting in the tropical heat after a day. And there are only ten, whereas there were 300,000 in the the 2004 tsunami.

Everyone’s Alive!

Clark April 27th, 2007

Except the villagers and the fishermen. They’re all dead, but everyone I know is alive. It turns out there are two settlements in Seno Aysen, one up the river a ways, and one down the seno called Chacabuco. It was the one up the river that got obliterated. There actually was a yacht in Chacabuco. They got rocked and rolled a bit, and said it sounded like an atom bomb going off, but they’re fine. 

It’s amazing that this is back page news even in Chile, and I can’t find it on any international news sites. There was this blurb in Prensa Latina if anyone is interested: http://www.plenglish.com/article.asp?ID=%7B3D73268D-8755-4195-8E1B-3A37AFB3EB91%7D&language=EN

What am I, a tsunami magnet? 

Speaking of earthquakes, the lovely city of Valdivia has the distinction of being the site of biggest earthquake ever, or at least since humans have been recording such things. In 1960 an earthquake not only levelled the city, but drastically changed the landscape. The courses of rivers were changed, lakes were formed, and the whole area dropped a full two meters in elevation. 

The Valdivia River used to be contained within a walled channel. The earthquake dropped the walls below the surface of the water to become ten-mile-long death traps. The submerged walls are well-marked, but everyone has a story about crashing into one, and they are now dotted with a series of wrecks where ships have gone astray. I was warned enough times that I made sure I came up in daylight and kept my eye on the ball. Valdivia has a big university. There are rowing teams training up and down the river, and big stone houses lining the banks. It feels like the south of England. 

Last night I was invited for dinner on a Canadian couple’s boat. They showed me a slide show of underwater photography, which was magically accompanied by some piano, which I recognized as Debussy. I made a joke about them having a piano onboard, but they really do have a piano onboard! Maryanne was playing it, and I thought she’d just slipped away to put on a CD. It’s only a 45-foot boat, but gotta have the piano. She is a retired concert pianist, and her husband Larry is a retired airline pilot. 

I drank too much, talked their ears off, and had to be kicked out at midnight. 

Club de Yates Valdivia

Clark April 26th, 2007

April 26, 2007
39º49′ South, 73º15′
Club de Yates Valdivia

I am blissfully in port, drinking a microbrew that
tastes like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, exhausted,
worried, and contemplating coincidence and/or the
grand design.

If you will remember, I chose to zip directly from the
Golfo de Penas to Valdivia, taking an offshore route,
rather than go back into the channels. I suffered
dearly at the hands of Mother Nature for this choice,
but I am sitting here four days later, and I have made
record time for a solo sailor.

The standard route is to duck back into the channels
after leaving the Golfo de Penas and rounding Cabo
Raper, to progress as far north as Puerto Montt on an
inshore route. If a boat did this, as did the
Belgians, the German, the Swedes, and Alejandro and
Susana, one of the first potential stops would be Seno
Aysen. Not only is Seno Aysen scenic, it has a small
settlement like Puerto Eden if you needed anything
like food, fuel, or anything a settlement might
provide.

Two days ago there was a 6.2 earthquake in Seno Aysen,
causing a mountain to collapse into the seno, which in
turn caused an eighty foot tsunami. The settlement was
erased. They have found a few bodies and a fishing
boat stranded 150 meters above the high tide line, but
that’s all we know at this point. Currently there are
only three confirmed dead and seven missing, but this
is a very remote area and all communications and
infrastructure to the settlement were destroyed. It is
only accessible by boat in the best of times. The
Armada will not release the most recent position
reports from the foreign yachts, and they won’t say if
they consider any of them to be missing. Bastards.

They say the tsunami was largely confined to Seno
Aysen, and didn’t penetrate into neighboring channels.
The chances of all or any of them being in this
particular seno at the time of the earthquake are hard
to estimate. Peter, the German, lives here in
Valdivia, and this is his yacht club. Everyone is
worried about him and his parrot. I am especially
worried about Alejandro and Susana, because they were
in no hurry. They got rid of their charter guests and
were enjoying the time alone to drift around the
channels, plus they’d both had a bit of the flu and
were taking it slow. If a boat was in a hurry, they
probably wouldn’t divert up into Seno Aysen. If they
were taking their time to explore, or needed a phone,
or needed some aspirin, or some such reason, they
might have gone up there. The Belgians, Michel and
Monique, were definitely trying to make good time. I
never met the Swedes, Bjorn and Anika, I just talked
to them on the radio.

I, for once, for whatever reason, was in a hurry.

Underway off Isla Chiloe

Clark April 24th, 2007

April 24, 2007
42º00′ South, 74º44′
Underway, off Isla Chiloé

Relief at last. The wind let up during the night, and the seas evened out around sunrise. They’re still huge, but regular. I’m sailing almost dead downwind with the whisker pole and a full press of canvas, making six knots on a direct course for Valdivia. Should get there late tomorrow if the weather holds.

God the last two days were awful. When I’m going through it I convince myself that it’s not so bad, I guess because I don’t have a choice. To do otherwise would be to invite panic, which is never far away in relentless conditions like those.

Continue Reading »

Roaring Forties part deux

Clark April 23rd, 2007

April 23, 2007
44º00′ South, 75º00′ West (even numbers)
Underway, near Isla Guafo

Still getting my ass kicked in the Roaring Forties, but with three of my limbs clinging to the boat and one hand typing I can write.

It’s rough as guts out here. The wind is only averaging about thirty-five, which is OK, but the seas are huge and confused and never seem to let up. At least the wind is coming from the right direction and I’m making good time. I’ve got the boat in full combat mode, where everything that isn’t already screwed down or glued down is now tied down, strapped down, or put away…prepared for a knock-down, but haven’t even been close yet. It’s fatiguing and frustrating. Everything takes ten times as long to do, or can’t be done at all, because of the violent motion. The least motion is lying on the floor in the main cabin, but even there I have to brace myself. No, I’m not having fun at the moment.

Continue Reading »

Roaring Forties

Clark April 23rd, 2007

April 22, 2007
44º59′ South, 75º07′ West
Underway, near Isla Guamblin

Getting my ass kicked in the Roaring Forties…will update later.

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