Home Port

Clark May 28th, 2008

I’ve been stalling for a week. What the hell do I write when the trip is over?

My dad joined me in Cabo and we set sail early the next morning. By the next day it was cold and we were back to boots, hats, and gloves. People think Baja is all balmy desert, but that California current and its associated upwellings make it a cold place, even in summer. Once we were well into central Baja the landscape and climate were just like-dare I say it-Patagonia. My dad only had ten days, so our anchorages were short and sweet, just long enough to cook a hot meal or grab a few hours of sleep. We had some true westerlies and were able to sail about a fourth of the way. We made one nice long tack of about seventy miles from Cedros Island to the mainland. Usually this trip is all a motor-a-thon.

About halfway through the trip I got a 24-hour flu with a 102 degree fever, which is always fun on a cold, rocking boat. My dad surmised that since he’d had his free senior citizen’s flu shot, and I hadn’t, I got sick and he didn’t. Damned septuagenarians and their superior immune systems.

We pulled into Ensenada and my dad took a taxi to the border. I spent another night and filled up on fuel again. I’m no dummy: It’s half as much in Mexico-half as much!-as in the US these days. I filled every jug and bottle I had and topped the tanks.

I set sail at 4AM on May 14 and pulled into San Diego early that afternoon. The second I entered the harbor a coast guard boat turned on its sirens and-yeah!-boarded the power boat next to me. I was counting my good fortune when there was a second coast guard boat that boarded me moments later. Usually I hate the fascists, but the guys were so darned polite and friendly I couldn’t help but like them. Condesa passed all tests with flying colors and everything was ship shape by coast guard standards.

I tied up at the quarantine dock with the help of my new friends and there was nobody around. I called the number on the end of the dock, but it was out of service. I left some messages and sat tight. After a while my cell phone rang and the customs guy gushed apologies: “Sit tight, boss, we’re on our way!”

I was bracing for rude and threatening treatment from my countrymen at Homeland Security in the post 9/11 world, but they were sweet as pie too. The agent was training another guy, but they never went any further than the cockpit. After a few minutes the papers were filled out and he said I was all done.

“That’s it?”
“That’s it.”
“You’re not going to search the boat?”
“Nope. You’re all done. Welcome home.”
“I’ve been out of the country for nine years. I could have been subverted by terrorists and be carrying all kinds of dangerous contraband on this boat. No swabs? No dogs?”
“Nope. Welcome home.”

And then, at a bit of a loss as to where to keep the boat for the night, I found a public marina run by the City of San Diego right next to the customs dock that costs $10 per night! I’d heard rumors around the world that San Diego had become a less than friendly port for visiting sailors. Nothing could be further from the truth and I’d be proud for any of my foreign sailing friends to have the same experience I did.

I had a little party aboard with some of my San Diego friends, then Matt, the builder of this website, joined me the next morning for the final push to Newport. He made the maiden voyage with me back in 1997, just a few weeks after I bought Condesa (when her name was still Destiny).

We tied up at the Beek dock on Balboa Island that afternoon, nine years and four months after leaving. Thank God I’m off that hell ship.

Last Monday I started my commute up the 405 to my new job in Los Angeles in my white 2002 Nissan Sentra. Just kidding. I don’t have a job and I’m going to slow roll that one for a while. Better to settle in a bit and leech off my family before doing anything rash. It’s summer after all.

My plan is to sail up to San Francisco in about ten days and try life up there. So I’m still cruising! It’s not over! I’ll cruise to Santa Barbara, and the Channel Islands, and make a glorious landfall under the Golden Gate! The trip’s not over until I say it’s over, and it’s not over! I’ve been avoiding the real world for nine and a half years and I’m not about to give up now.

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Comment by Gene Schenk
2008-05-29 04:33:04

Welcome home, Clark !

When you first looked at Codesa, then named Destiny, I told you she could take you around the world……and you’ve Done It !! I am sure I wouldn’t have taken up the challenge—only the tropics for me. I’ll be keeping watch on your website.

Happy days, Gene
(now a hillbilly)

Comment by Clark
2008-05-29 12:49:26

Hi Gene,

Yep, she’s done it, and with our combined care over all these years she’ still going strong. The engine, now with another 3000-4000 hours on her, has only had routine maintenance, a paint job, and a few external parts replaced, thanks I’m sure to your regular oil changes and good practices.

I just mailed the painting of the boat that was on the bulkhead to Chuck. Now that I know the story of the three brothers, I think it belongs more with your family than mine…and now it’s a circumnavigating painting.

Thanks, Gene.


Comment by pete
2008-05-29 17:41:33

Clark I hope you write some sea stories into longer text maybe a book? I really enjoy your sense of humor and adventure. Keep it going please. pete

Comment by Clark
2008-06-03 16:53:08

Thanks, Pete! If you keep reading, I’ll keep writing. It means a lot to know that people are actually reading this stuff.


Comment by Bob
2008-05-30 10:53:43

“There is no unhappiness like the misery of sighting land (and work) again after a cheerful, careless voyage.”
Mark Twain

Welcome Home

Comment by Clark
2008-06-03 16:52:08

Thank you, Sir. There is truth in Mr. Twain’s wise words, but so far I’m happy to be here. Of course this is probably largely because I’m not working yet.

Comment by Bob
2008-06-04 13:46:28

After 9 years I’m sure you are enjoying being home.
And.. your’s was not exactly the cheerful, careless voyage.
Enjoyed your article… terrifying!
You are also correct about AIS.
Great tool!

(Comments wont nest below this level)
Comment by Jim Riddle
2008-06-06 08:56:10

Congratulations Clark!

Welcome home. After 9 years away things must seem a lot different now. But, trust me, you didn’t miss a thing. Kris and I will have a toast in your honor tonight.

Comment by Clark
2008-06-17 12:50:00

Hey Jim and Kris,

Congratulations on number 2. Sorry I didn’t get in touch passing through SoCal, but it’s all been a whirlwind. Will call as soon as I get a mobile phone sorted out.


Comment by brett "circumdecision"
2009-01-12 13:30:59

Hey Clark,

Long time no speak- Brett here off Circumdecision C.R. later s/v Project Mayhem, now s/v Grace.
We missed you in 02 in NZ. I heard you were around NZ but never hooked up. We ended up in Fiji – not with whats her name. Check out our site praxisuniversal.com
We’re actually getting ready to take off again, being land bound ain’t all it’s cracked up to be. We’re in Ventura currently on Grace. Drop me a line some time, it would be great to catch up.



Comment by Clark
2009-01-14 12:19:33

Hey Brett,

So glad you got in touch. I had no idea you guys were in NZ at that time. I’ll email you to your address. Cheers, Clark

Comment by Jeanette
2014-01-18 20:43:30

Funny… Her name is Jeanette.

Comment by tones
2009-01-16 07:02:51

Clark, a few friends will be vacationing soon in Maldives. Ever been there? Any tips, must dos?
Hope all is well. T

Comment by Clark
2009-01-16 11:24:56

Tony, I’ve only been to Gan, the southernmost atoll in the Maldives. Beautiful, but not much to do but dive. The Maldives is an Islamic state, so drinking and fraternizing with the locals is all closely regulated. Cheers, Clark

Comment by Clark
2014-01-27 15:25:44

Wow Jeanette, that was a seriously delayed retort…like years. Haven’t seen you since Costa Rica, was it?

Comment by Jeanette
2014-11-24 00:23:29

Delayed for sure…. Gotta figure the other factors in it. I hope you are still sailing, as am I. Brett, not what’s his name, is still playing… I’m still sailing… And loving it.. Met lots of great folks and continuing the journey. Cheers to you.

Comment by Jeanette
2017-10-21 21:13:37

It is still comical… Brett hits 60 in february, 2018,…. and I am still in my 40’s. He has lied to every publication and sponsor. None of them have done a background on this cat,…. they just take him for his word. Being gay never bothered me,… being a liar and a thief defines him. Robbins Brett Thompson is still ripping people…..

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