Archive for the 'Sailing' Category

Club de Yates Valdivia

Clark April 26th, 2007

April 26, 2007
39º49′ South, 73º15′
Club de Yates Valdivia

I am blissfully in port, drinking a microbrew that
tastes like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, exhausted,
worried, and contemplating coincidence and/or the
grand design.

If you will remember, I chose to zip directly from the
Golfo de Penas to Valdivia, taking an offshore route,
rather than go back into the channels. I suffered
dearly at the hands of Mother Nature for this choice,
but I am sitting here four days later, and I have made
record time for a solo sailor.

The standard route is to duck back into the channels
after leaving the Golfo de Penas and rounding Cabo
Raper, to progress as far north as Puerto Montt on an
inshore route. If a boat did this, as did the
Belgians, the German, the Swedes, and Alejandro and
Susana, one of the first potential stops would be Seno
Aysen. Not only is Seno Aysen scenic, it has a small
settlement like Puerto Eden if you needed anything
like food, fuel, or anything a settlement might
provide.

Two days ago there was a 6.2 earthquake in Seno Aysen,
causing a mountain to collapse into the seno, which in
turn caused an eighty foot tsunami. The settlement was
erased. They have found a few bodies and a fishing
boat stranded 150 meters above the high tide line, but
that’s all we know at this point. Currently there are
only three confirmed dead and seven missing, but this
is a very remote area and all communications and
infrastructure to the settlement were destroyed. It is
only accessible by boat in the best of times. The
Armada will not release the most recent position
reports from the foreign yachts, and they won’t say if
they consider any of them to be missing. Bastards.

They say the tsunami was largely confined to Seno
Aysen, and didn’t penetrate into neighboring channels.
The chances of all or any of them being in this
particular seno at the time of the earthquake are hard
to estimate. Peter, the German, lives here in
Valdivia, and this is his yacht club. Everyone is
worried about him and his parrot. I am especially
worried about Alejandro and Susana, because they were
in no hurry. They got rid of their charter guests and
were enjoying the time alone to drift around the
channels, plus they’d both had a bit of the flu and
were taking it slow. If a boat was in a hurry, they
probably wouldn’t divert up into Seno Aysen. If they
were taking their time to explore, or needed a phone,
or needed some aspirin, or some such reason, they
might have gone up there. The Belgians, Michel and
Monique, were definitely trying to make good time. I
never met the Swedes, Bjorn and Anika, I just talked
to them on the radio.

I, for once, for whatever reason, was in a hurry.

Underway off Isla Chiloe

Clark April 24th, 2007

April 24, 2007
42º00′ South, 74º44′
Underway, off Isla Chiloé

Relief at last. The wind let up during the night, and the seas evened out around sunrise. They’re still huge, but regular. I’m sailing almost dead downwind with the whisker pole and a full press of canvas, making six knots on a direct course for Valdivia. Should get there late tomorrow if the weather holds.

God the last two days were awful. When I’m going through it I convince myself that it’s not so bad, I guess because I don’t have a choice. To do otherwise would be to invite panic, which is never far away in relentless conditions like those.

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Roaring Forties part deux

Clark April 23rd, 2007

April 23, 2007
44º00′ South, 75º00′ West (even numbers)
Underway, near Isla Guafo

Still getting my ass kicked in the Roaring Forties, but with three of my limbs clinging to the boat and one hand typing I can write.

It’s rough as guts out here. The wind is only averaging about thirty-five, which is OK, but the seas are huge and confused and never seem to let up. At least the wind is coming from the right direction and I’m making good time. I’ve got the boat in full combat mode, where everything that isn’t already screwed down or glued down is now tied down, strapped down, or put away…prepared for a knock-down, but haven’t even been close yet. It’s fatiguing and frustrating. Everything takes ten times as long to do, or can’t be done at all, because of the violent motion. The least motion is lying on the floor in the main cabin, but even there I have to brace myself. No, I’m not having fun at the moment.

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Roaring Forties

Clark April 23rd, 2007

April 22, 2007
44º59′ South, 75º07′ West
Underway, near Isla Guamblin

Getting my ass kicked in the Roaring Forties…will update later.

Underway, six miles off Cabo Raper Lighthouse

Clark April 22nd, 2007

April 21, 2007
46º49′ South, 76º45′ West
Underway, six miles off Cabo Raper lighthouse

An hour ago writing something on a computer was unthinkable. The seas were huge and confused as I left the Golfo de Penas and I thought I was gonna hurl, and I haven’t been seasick since I was eighteen. The hulking twenty-foot ground swell from the Southern Ocean was just one of the many swells piling on top of each other. A big ship came past me and it was rolling all over the place, more than I’ve ever seen a big ship roll. It looked dangerous, but I guess I shouldn’t really be worrying about the safety of big ships at sea. Now the wind came around to west northwest, and I’m sailing along at five knots on a course of due north. The sun just set and I’m about to spend my first night at sea in two months.

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Pozo Omega

Clark April 22nd, 2007

April 19, 2007
46º48′ South, 75º15′ West
Pozo Omega

Correction: Whales don’t broach, they breach.

I made landfall at about 9:30PM, tied the boat in, and then ventured off for the hot springs in the dinghy with all the aforementioned gear.

For starters, it was a dark as the inside of a cow, and the light from a flashlight is just swallowed by the darkness. I had the handheld GPS, but one must first know how to use the handheld GPS. It initialized and connected with the satellites, I threw it in my pocket, and it was only when I really needed it that I realized I couldn’t figure out any of its key functions without the manual. At this point I thought my chances of finding the hot springs in the dark were pretty slim.

Then I thought I would use my sense of smell. I would sniff for the telltale sulfur smell. To backtrack a bit, I have just crossed the Golfo de Penas, a body of water with a nasty reputation. Most sailors try to get out of here without dallying. In fact, the Belgians, the German, and the Swedes all left at about the same time I did, but took advantage of the good weather to leave the Golfo de Penas and never look back. Why walk through the valley of the shadow of death when you can run? I, instead of doing the same, elected to stay here and recreate. Only now that I have successfully crossed this loathsome body of water and found a snug harbor, I have ventured back into the Golfo de Penas, in the middle of the night, in an eight foot rubber boat, and I’m motoring in circles sniffing the air like the village idiot. I realized the sulfur smell of a hot spring is almost indistinguishable from the general low tide, rotting mollusk smell of the shoreline. I abandoned my sniffing.

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April 19, 2007 – Underway

Clark April 19th, 2007

April 19, 2007
46º48′ South, 75º15′ West
Underway

Today was more like it, sailing across the Golfo de Penas with 25-30 knots of wind out of the west, with whales spouting all around. It was the first proper sailing I’ve done in a long time. It’s nice to have the windvane set and be able to read and do a few things without worrying about crashing into the side of a channel.

The wind crapped out at the end of the day, so now I’m motoring the last 15 miles to my Hot Springs of the Holy Grail. I’m going in the dark: I don’t care. I’ve been dreaming of a hot soak for so long I’ve already got all my things ready: handheld GPS, razor, shaving cream, soap, a couple liters of tank water in a plastic bottle for washing off the rotten egg smell. I’ve been cold for so long and I’m freezing cold right now, so the thought is just delightful. It will be a crushing blow if they suck, especially since I will have taken the dinghy almost a mile from the anchorage in the cold night, not to mention the sixty-some mile deviation from my rhumbline to Valdivia.

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Caleta Ideal (again)

Clark April 18th, 2007

April 18, 2007
48º45′ South, 74º53′ West
Caleta Ideal (again)

At first light this morning three boats upped anchor to cross the Golfo de Penas. We had favorable GRIB files, a good weatherfax from the Armada, and stabilizing barometric pressures between the lighthouses at the northern and southern ends of the gulf.

Two hours later, three boats returned with bumps, bruises, and torn sails, shivering and demoralized. It was like a ghost story that a sailor would tell his children to make them behave.

Puerto Island

Clark April 17th, 2007

April 16, 2007
48º03′ South, 74º35′ West
Puerto Island

I got out of Caleta Hell without incident this morning, but it was still howling in the main channel, Canal Messier. I pounded against it for a few miles until the next protected spot, where I found both the Belgians and the German to be cowering as well. With all the rain, the waterfalls are really going crazy. There was a huge one pouring off a cliff into deep water. I could have driven Condesa underneath, but it would have broken her in half. I settled for some good pictures with the bow almost in the cataract.

I changed the oil and did some routine maintenance, then slept all afternoon, and I’m not much of a nap taker.

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Caleta Hell

Clark April 15th, 2007

April 15, 2007
48º10′ South, 74º30′ West
Caleta Hell

Whooie, today was an eye opener.

I set sail before first light from my last caleta, hoping to get all the way to Isla San Pedro, the last anchorage before entering the Golfo de Penas. I was screaming along in ideal conditions, the current helping me along, doing seven knots. My only complaint was that it was freezing cold. Sleet was blowing into the wheelhouse from behind, I had every bit of clothing on that I could grab, and I still couldn’t ever get warm. My feet went completely numb.

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